Trishna: Marylebone, London

Having walked by Trishna many times in Marylebone (most notably for dinner at Roganic) and having missed going to its original form in Mumbai, and then nearly going, but not, I finally made it one afternoon. Being one of the quieter Indian restaurants ticking away in London, its Mumbai counterpart is anything but short of renown, serving fare from the south west coastal regions of the subcontinent, or a distance of a few thousand kilometres and a vast and varying culinary style. With it’s short, yet enticing array of dishes, picking a few isn’t as easy as one might hope as the possibility of one’s eyes being larger than their tummies is quite a risk. 

Chutney n poppadum
Fried quail
Lamb chop

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At last, a restaurant that serves proper roasted papads (poppadums!), not the plain fried variety that has become the bane of Indian eateries everywhere. The chutneys were mango and onion seed and spicy shrimp and tomato (I was told it was rather lovely!).

First up was Fried quail with chatpata spices, mango and coriander chutney. What a little devil this little bird was. Crispy to an almost embarrassing crunch whilst protecting steaming morsels of flesh, this little bird was dusted with chaat masala and for once in an Indian restaurant, came with a generous helping of chutney, the fruity-grassy combination being the good Indian choice of condiment.

Lamb chop with Kashmiri chilli, ginger and mustard mooli could not have been more perfectly cooked, a tinge of tandoor smokiness singing along with a lightness of spices and a good helping of ginger meant that the sharp, bitter pungency of the mustard mooli saw to it that this morsel needed restraint. The urge to gobble it up is high, very high, yet the sensibility to savour the joy is, thankfully, stronger.

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Aubergine
Accompaniments
Jalebi

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As it is well known, no aubergine can escape my hungry grasp. Here was a little beauty of Chargrilled katti-meeti aubergine, onion seed and paneer. The katti-meeti (sweet-sour) jubilation came via a lick of tamarind mixed in with the smoked aubergine crush stuffed inside the chargrilled one. I would have defended my rights to have this dish all to myself had there been any discussion otherwise!

Accompaniments by means of Hyderabadi dal and Okra with coconut, fennel and fenugreek seeds did their dutiful part to be graciously devoured as well!

Dessert, unfortunately, would not play as well as its other brethren. Kesari jalebi, cardamom rabri, poached pear, ginger ice cream sounded oh so lusciously perfect, yet it went straight down the blah route. The jalebi (crispy sugary wheat fritters) were cold and rock solid, the rabri (reduced milk) was quite deadpan and the rest weren’t fun eating on their own.

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A repeat visit is definitely on the cards!

Overall experience: 8 
Food: 8
Recommend you go: 8
Website
Trishna on Urbanspoon
Square Meal

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