The Cut, 45 Park Lane

Celebrity chefs…one doesn’t quite know whether to trust them entirely or not. Will the food be worth the name? All too often we’ve experienced restaurants under the name of a celebrity chef that just doesn’t quite get it, and naturally, with celebrity comes no-show. A no-show by the chef in his own restaurant. It was with slight trepidation that such an experience of celebrity-chef-downer might take place, I nevertheless ventured into Cut, 45 Park Lane, London home of the American chef-idol, Wolfgang Puck, having received numerous criticisms on both sides of opinion. Well, I was in the area, I was hungry and I quite fancied a steak, and they had a table when I walked in.

Being reasonably full for a lunch, it no longer had the hype and rush it aroused when it opened in late 2011, and above all, one thing was true, it was an expensive menu, yet would the steak cut the mustard or would it be a mouthful of gristle?

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Oxtail
Oxtail
Steak
Crumble

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Oxtail soup, bone marrow dumplings – hearty broth, light dumplings and overall quite enjoyable, in spite of the slight over-saltiness.

I went for a Filet Mignon, Casterbridge, Devon 6oz with homemade steak sauce and Wild field mushrooms, Japanese shishito peppers . Lovely piece of meat, not quite sure about the sauce – sort of like a brown sauce (but better), but heavily seasoned and having a questionable consistency. The side dish of mushrooms was quite addictive and housing a healthy amount of ceps!

Fuji apple and huckleberry crumble, huckleberry gelato was, sadly, not the amazing crumble I was expecting. Excessively sweet and wet, and the crumble was pre-cooked and sprinkled on top rather than being evenly layered and baked with the dish. Unimpressive and disappointing.

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Overall, the only thing that sticks out from the meal is that it isn’t worth half the price one pays for 3 simple courses when for the same money, a tasting menu at most of London’s 1 and 2 star Michelin restaurants can be had. A well cooked steak, is a well cooked steak and can be found at numerous haunts across town, with far more inspiring results.

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Overall experience: 7
Food: 7
Recommend you go: 4
Website:
Square Meal

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