Manson, London

There’s nothing here that has anything to do with Charles or Marilyn, even though the name can be a bit misleading. A British brasserie in Fulham is what it is, with Alan Stewart, previously of Launceston Place and Chez Bruce, at its helm. Be warned, however, that if you decide to use Google maps to get there, this bit of advice will help: do not search for Manson, Fulham! You will get directed to the wrong side of Fulham Road (about 300 doors away). Instead, use the address 676 Fulham Road! Once inside, however, the atmosphere is much different to the aggressive street outside.

A simple menu made it that much easier for us to decide quickly and even had a bowl of Celeriac soup, hazelnuts and mint oil to help us along (which I have to say, was just the thing for a cold, cold winter evening!).

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Trout
Duck on toast
Lamb

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Caraway cured sea trout, pickles, cabbage and dill had a slightly salty tinge in the cure, but was a refreshing dish overall, with the crispness of the vegetables contrasting against the richness of the fish.

A middle course (thank you Alan!) of Duck on Toast was truly a fine treat with roast duck, duck fat fried duck egg, duck rilette, and apples. A lot of duck, a lot of wintery goodness!

My main of Herdwick lamb, onions, rosemary, capers was just what I was craving, having not eaten lamb in over 2 months (I’d had plenty of goat in that time!) and this beauty of braised and roast lamb had all the makings of a rustic, hearty winter dish.

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Acorn pudding
Lemon possett
Rhubarb

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First up was Acorn set pudding, apple sorbet, linseeds. Akin to a pannacotta, the acorn version carried a hint of woody nuttiness that fell in line with the apple sorbet and linseeds…well we all know how good they are for you, so always welcomed!

Lemon possett, pear sorbet, thyme and macaroons wasn’t a step out of line. Great touch to a classic dessert with the addition of fresh thyme leaves and a pear sorbet to offset the tartness.

Stem ginger parfait, poached rhubarb, rhubarb sorbet (thank you Alan for the extra treat!) sang all the right notes at the right time. A self procalimed stem ginger aficionado, I will eat it in any form, shape and preparation, and with some perfectly cooked rhubarb, who could be anything but happy?

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Maybe it’s a chef thing, or maybe it’s me, but there’s a lot of pride and happiness in going to dine at the restaurant of a former work colleague. Manson’s wine list is ridiculous too. Some great bottles at very wallet-friendly prices, as is the menu. It’s  a shame I live on the other side of town or else this would be a well frequented space!

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Food: 7
Overall experience: 8
Recommend you go: 8
Website
Manson on Urbanspoon
Square Meal

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