Kin Shop, New York

New York, New York…one only has to mention that name and a smile immediately erupts on everyone’s face and they start waxing lyrical about their love for the Big Apple. No less is everyone’s view that it is truly one of the greatest, if not THE greatest city in the world for food – long gone is Paris’ dominance, for New York is apparently where the most exciting food and surely the most varied food is to be found, so for a first visit, it was only befitting that I spend a fair 2 weeks slowly expanding my waistline, beginning with Southeast Asian fare.
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Kin Shop, the second restaurant by Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle is a tiny little spot in the West Village of Manhattan, with a delightfully small menu, which needed no deliberation as at a first glance, the dishes themselves jumped out of the menu and screamed, “I am here for you”.
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Roti and relishes
Bone Marrow
Fluke

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Starting with a divine selection of relishes that included chilli jam, cucumber, coriander nam prik and coconut-gooseberry, moved on to…

Roasted bone marrow, crisp taro root, radish sprouts, roti and yellow bean sauce: All that needs to be said for this bone marrow is that the previous legendary versions from St. John (Fergus Henderson) and Dinner (Heston Blumenthal/Ashley Palmer-Watts) are, simply, not a patch on what we had. The addition of yellow bean sauce and taro root just catapault the marrow into another atmosphere, with the roti there to mop up the juices and scrape the bone clean!
H’s Miang of fluke with Asian pear, chilli jam, fried garlic was much a-kin (no pun here!) to a ceviche, but without the strong lime influence, and ever so delicate that we both remarked how enjoyable it was.
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Massaman

MyMassaman goat curry with purple yams, fried shallots, mustard greens and toasted coconut brought about many sighs of happiness and giggles of pleasure – a gorgeous hunk of braised  goat shin that had perfectly soaked up the flavours of the curry rather than having been boiled separately and just finished off in the sauce as most restaurants are wont to do. H went for the squid and skate curry that was the only spicy listed dish on the main course and he was pleasantly surprised that even for someone with a high chilli tolerance, this dish was truly spicy, and yet kept the flavours that supplemented the heat.

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Root beer float

A rather interesting mixing of cultures surfaced in my dessert of Root beer float with galangal ice cream and macademia cookie – Good old American tradition jazzed by Thai inspiration – a fabulous root beer and a zingy galangal ice cream!

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All in all, a veritable success on all fronts, and one that I’d happily return for!

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Overall experience: 8

Food: 7

Recommend you go: 8

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